The Lawyer in His Lair: Lincoln, Springfield, and Honestly Laid-Back Camping

  Take I-55 North from St. Louis and after a while you start seeing a lot of stuff named after a local lawyer. Lincoln is his name, and Springfield, Illinois, was his hometown in the years before he hopped a train to Washington to helm an absolute headache of a job. The State of Illinois dubbed itself the Land of said Lawyer, and Springfield, 90 miles northeast of St. Louis, is its capital. With museums, capitol-related tours, Route 66 hangouts, lake recreation and loads of Lincolnalia everywhere, Springfield is definitely worth a day-visit, weekend or even more. We had both been there before, but now we had only one day and I wanted my gal to at least see the lawyer's house, which still stands proudly and is maintained as a national historic site, and maybe we could fit in the fantastic hologram-powered presidential museum, another must-see.

Did I say we only had a day? We had a short day. This was a rough trip. We've been doing this for almost four years now, and it was bound to happen. We were headed north for the summer, and packing for six months away is difficult on her, plus the rainy weather made things sloppy and stressful -- at one point the right rear tire got buried in the mud -- and the accommodations were difficult when one of the RV campground operators shoehorned us into a soggy, inaccessible spot even though I had reserved an accessible spot weeks in advance. For every all the angels I've met in this bumpy ride called life, there are some devils thrown in too. Just like they'll screw over the elderly, some will prey on the disabled. Simply by not listening and being greedy, Jerry at Southgate RV Campground in Fayetteville, Arkansas, really ****ed us over. Watch out for the Jerrys out there.

Not everything was terrible. We got to see our nephew's Little League game on a beautiful evening in Waco, and in Fayetteville, Arkansas, reunited with friends whom we hadn't seen in 20 years! I hadn't realized it had been that long until we sat and reminisced, and of course like true friends tend to do, we gabbed away like no time had passed at all. Dick was a biker and Itera was a nun. They met and got married a week later, and that was over 50 years ago. Back when we lived across the street from each other, Dick was a Dean at DeVry Institute of Technology and loved using his know-how to come up with accessibility devices for me and my progressive condition: an adaptive, locking door-latch and adaptive wheelchair controller -- both beautifully machined -- as well as an adaptive spoon and a refrigerator door-opener, which you had to see to believe ... but it worked! Itera has the giving heart of a saint and was learning how to do energy work, so she would come over and spend hours working with me, in peaceful sessions that would leave us both blissed out. Today they are as welcoming and generous as ever, and these were more great times together. It's turned out to be one of the real jewels of traveling in our little trailer is actually visiting and spending time with loved ones instead of always saying we're going to, but never doing it. This visit meant a lot to us.

But arriving in Illinois was its own relaxing reward, with its comfortable weather and gentle green farming landscape. We went to call on said lawyer at his home. Dude was not around. I figured it was cool to stretch out in his backyard for a few, and catch some rays. I knew there was a tour going inside the home, and what if they came out the back door and were like, "Hey you, shoo, shoo!" But in my shades I was too cool to think about it, busy basking in the power of Lincoln rays.

The Lincoln Home National Historic Site surrounds the home for two square blocks, and is made up of crisscrossing Eighth and Jackson streets lined with two dozen restored homes and out-structures. The area is closed to traffic, so you can go along on the packed gravel streets or on the plankboard sidewalks, both in good shape for easy wheeling in a power chair at least. In a manual chair ...?

        From a wheelchair-accessibility perspective, you'll have to decide which you will do, streets or sidewalks, because it's one or the other: Apparently there were no curb cut-outs in the Great Emancipator's day, right? If you're on a sidewalk or on a street, the only way to cross over into the other is by going to the end of the block. You'll want to do both levels.

Now the home itself is only partially accessible. The Lincolns lived there for 17 years and they added on a second floor, which is not accessible to wheelchairs. The first floor is accessible to manual chairs only: No power wheelchairs or scooters. I'd seen it already in my other, walking life, and my queen was taking a pass that day. There are workarounds, but it's always a bummer to see or hear the word, "NO." From our experience, National Park Service usually does a good job with accessibility. My accessibility questions were answered by the Illinois Department of Natural Resources like so: 

"Most power wheelchairs are unfortunately unable to go inside the Lincoln Home due to their weight and their width. If you have a particularly light (65 pounds or less) and narrower power chair, it may be able to fit. (You can send me the specifications of the chair to check, if you would like.) As many of the structural components of the Lincoln Home are original, including the doorways, this unfortunately affects what devices can be used inside the home. Manual wheelchairs, as long as they can fit inside the Lincoln Home doorways, can go inside the home. We have a measurement device at our visitor center we use to check if a guest's manual wheelchair can fit through the doorways. If their wheelchair cannot fit, we also have manual wheelchairs guests can check out free of charge to use.

"When using a wheelchair on the Lincoln Home tour, the individual using the wheelchair (and another individual in their party, if desired/applicable) will receive their own tour guide for the duration of the tour. The rest of the tour group who are not using wheelchairs will go with another tour guide and enter the home using the steps that lead up to the front door. The party that includes the individual in the wheelchair will enter the house through a different entrance, one which uses a wheelchair lift to lift the individuals to the house's first floor level. (The house is raised and on a slight hill.) The first floor of the home tour will be given, and then the tour guide can offer showing pictures of the second floor with narration, to any individuals who choose not to go upstairs.

"Please just inform the person at the Visitor Center front desk that there is an individual in your group that cannot go up and down stairs, and they will communicate with the appropriate staff to prepare the lift. ...The maximum length, I have been told, that wheelchairs can be to fit is 29.5 inches. ...

"We may be able to make it work with 2 individuals in wheelchairs, but any more than that really cannot fit on one tour due to the size of the rooms and the room partitions. ... If this applies to your party, please let me know and we can discuss potential options."

Tall tales be spoken here: the Railsplitter's porch. (Shhh, I'm creeping in the backyard.)

Jennifer Caldwell of Illinois DNR adds more:

"The courtyard and the main level of the house can be accessed by wheelchair. The wheelchair accessible entrance is through the carriage house, which is at the back of the property near the railroad tracks.  The narrowest of the doors/gates along the path is 32 inches wide.

"There is a lift on the north side of the house for guests unable to use the stairs. It is 32 inches wide by 48 inches deep and can accommodate up to 750 pounds.  The lift provides access to the main floor of the house.  Our staff are happy to help direct guests to the lift and assist with lift operation.

"Due to the varying elevations throughout the home, only the main level is accessible by wheelchair.  This includes the reception/fountain area, mother's bedroom, dining room, Victorian room, living room, kitchen and conservatory hall.  For other areas that are not accessible, we can provide live virtual access to those parts of the tour via iPad. (We will provide the iPad and other necessary equipment for this.)"

Contact her with your questions at jennifer.a.caldwell@illinois.gov or 217-685-9554.

Around the historic site, two of the houses are wheelchair accessible and in the cleverest way (see photos). 

I've never seen anything like them — literally, I could not see these lifts until my wife pointed out that they were there. Covered in matching board-work and swinging gates, I love these lifts.

        The houses have exhibits inside, and by the time we poked around the nooks and crannies, gardens and backyards of the tiny village area, the Butterball turkey timer in my head popped out, meaning, "Museummed out. Find another available brain." It usually takes a couple of hours to reach that point, but it was fun and I was done.

The afternoon was getting late and we walked around town. About five blocks away, we stumbled unto the Illinois State Police Memorial Park, at 722 S. Sixth St. It's on the corner of two reasonably busy streets, but set far enough off to be dignified and peaceful. It included enough human elements to make it quite touching, and when the evening bell started tolling at the nearby Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, I found myself very moved by it all. There is also an Illinois Police Officers Memorial not far away, at 840 S. Spring St., beside the Illinois State Museum.

Another few blocks and we reached Frank Lloyd Wright's Dana-Thomas House (phone 217-782-6776), now a state historic site, at 301 E. Lawrence Ave. Built in 1904, it was interesting seeing a museum-piece home -- oooh, it's Frank Lloyd Wright -- set within a neighborhood that's historic but a little worse for wear. I wheeled around the thing is much as I could, even around the back, to see all the different angles it presents. Unfortunately we were there after hours. From the website, the interiors look amazing although completely inaccessible. No response to my inquiry, so I'm guessing my conclusion is right.

Four blocks away, we came to the Illinois State Capitol building, at 401 S. Second St. At 361 feet, the Illinois State Capitol is the taller than the U.S. Capitol in Washington, D.C. Its central dome and towers are finished with a layer of zinc that provide its trademark silvery sheen which does not weather. On dreary, bad-weather days the dome looks heavy and leaden, or ironclad and oppressive -- which probably lies in the eye of the beholder depending on what the legislature inside has been up to lately, eh? But it was a bright, sunny day, which squares up with what I've seen coming out of there lately, and those towers were gleaming. Check out the features of the accessible tour here. A couple blocks away a Pride concert was blasting loud. It was a groovy, gorgeous day and folks were out enjoying it.

Camp A While, 1779 1250th Ave, Lincoln, IL 62656. 217-732-8840.

Thirty-five miles northeast of Springfield along I-55 lies a fantastic overnight spot, and it's the owners that make it so. It's a tiny place, maybe a dozen sites in all, very clean, quiet and well-maintained, ringed by trees and farmers' fields. It's a quarter-mile off the expressway, and with a historic pedigree as a traditional stopover spot along old Route 66 just a third of a mile away. Camp A While has been around for decades and was listed in all the old guidebooks. Full hookups, back-in spots of shallow gravel. The owners are hands-on and customer-service-oriented. You call them 15 minutes before arriving -- they insist on it in order to manage the available space, but it's well worth the call because they back you into the spot and see that you are set up with everything you need.

They are completely attentive to accessibility. After hearing my questions on the phone, they arranged a spot with a concrete pad where we could drop the wheelchair ramp, and checked that the gravel was OK with us beforehand. Sites are mostly level, with 15 feet of grass between them, fine for the wheelchair to get around, and there's always many empty spaces around so that the overall atmosphere is relaxed and quiet, never even close to crammed feeling. They get a lot of overnights to and from Florida, and workers. Last but not least, Wrigley, the camp dog, comes around to greet you, and if he likes you, maybe share one of his stuffed toys. He's a smooth operator, and he and my Queen are fast friends.

When we unloaded, two hot-air balloons drifted across the farmers field across the road, which kind of captured the cheerful mood after our short-but-sweet day. One of them had a likeness of the lawyer. While you're there in the town of Lincoln, you can drive through town on Route 66 to see the world's largest covered wagon. Guess who that wagon is driven by? It ain't Wrigley.

Baaling out at Brazos Bend

        In February, we camped at Brazos Bend State Park 21901 Farm to Market Road 762, Needville, TX, 43 miles south of Houston on the Brazos River. Parks like this, so close to a major city, are secret gardens that cast a spell the moment you enter. When I was a kid looking up nasty demons I came across in the Bible - Beelzebub, Ashtarof, Legion, and hoping for a creepy sketching to go with the definition - I found out that the one named Baal wasn't necessarily a devil or evil at all: a baal was a spirit that belonged to a place, like a babbling brook could have a baal living there, or a shadowy ravine might, or maybe there’s a baal in a tree hollow. And when we visit Brazos Bend, or Cedar Hill State Park outside of Dallas, the congestion, noise and fumes of the world fall away as we enter the park and are surrounded by the peaceful magic of fragrant old trees and the hush of green forest. Instantly we’re part of a different world. The baal’s all around us, and the busy little swipe-swipes of our devices have no power here. OK, that’s an exaggeration. There is wi-fi, but it feels a lot less important here. The point of these places is to wrest my head out of its tangled nest of to-do's, reaching-outs and write-me-backs: I'm here to baal out.

        The baal of Brazos Bend lives in humid woods and finger lakes with marshland. The park has a lot of hiking, many trails wheelchair-accessible. The main attraction though is the wildlife, including deer and plenty of waterfowl. (Bobcats too, but they don't want to be seen.) But the stars who really bring people in are the 300 alligators living in the park. There are plenty of pictures of them sunning along the trails – on the trails! – while Houstonians visit on lunch break. So it's not a very secret garden at all. Except the winter weather chased everyone away. Enter two opportunistic Northerners. We bundled up against the gray and wind and went out to find the baal and its alligators.

        (I ran off at the mouth here, so campsite decription & features to come.)

        We got down three trails, all very accessible. The one we made a beeline for was 40 Acre Lake Trail. Why? That’s where the alligators are, of course! The trail was gravel and old asphalt (sometimes bumpy but generally good) and circles a lake with some marsh and waterfowl. We saw a couple of hurons, ibises, and scores of some kind of swallows skimming and circling the water for bugs. The cold winds whipped across the lake. What, are we in Chicago over here? There were no alligators at all. Mab the Stair Freak even checked from the top of a three-story observation tower, brrrrr. Nope, no sign of alligulators.

        Clearfield Lake Trail is the paved ADA trail that crosses a lake with plenty of large waterfowl that let us come up close. Those trails were for us, and for the birds.

        A short stretch of Clearfield Lake Trail is wooded before it crosses the water. Look at all of the bird****, Mab said, and she's not a big swearer but that's how much there was. It coated the floor of the woods like whitewash. I don't remember the trail itself being too gross. But I did look up.

        "Look," I said. "In the tree." Hunched on a branch 30 feet above was the dark outline of a vulture looking down at us. He was a bad boy, all right. Correction, bad boys. "Look at all of 'em!" It was an arching branch and on it perched a line of silent, menacing vultures framed against the gray sky. They were all checking us out.

They're up there... licking their chops.

        But not only them: they were also in the next tree, and the one after that. And the one below that, and the ones on the other side of the trail. Everywhere we turned were staring vultures. On, on we went, but as we fled one treeful of vultures, another was there stalking us. Impassive, eerie. Once in a while a wind would ruffle a feather, but no reaction. How ominous, how unnerving. Were they looking at me like a Thanksgiving turkey on wheels? I could hear Vincent Price snickering, laughing in the background, and the suspenceful music building, getting louder (in my head). It was impossible to know what these hideous creatures were thinking, but they were not happy. Their car's extended warranty had run out. Something.

        There were hundreds of them around that lake. It was a convention of vultures - really, I looked it up, and a group of vultures is called a convention of vultures. Not a fun convention either, but I loved it. 

        Actually I saw a lot of these kids flying around when we entered the park and were looking for our campground. Bunches of them swirling around, more than I'd ever seen. It was a kettle of vultures swirling round, because flying vultures are a kettle (I'm into this!), and hunkered-down, sitting vultures are a convention. Got it?

        Maybe they'd been sizing me up the whole time. Then, there'd be a wake of vultures (I'm not kidding you. Look it up.), which is what they're called when gathered around, feeding. How about a banquet? Or a buffet?

        We visited the nature center nearby, with natural history and some rescued baby gators in the tanks, soon to be reintroduced to the wild. A ranger told us they didn't know why there are more vultures in the park this year, but she thinks there's more on the way. I knew: the baal. There was no other explanation for some many those large birds just loitering. What was there that is so good? What are they eating? We saw some picking at the ground for bugs or worms or whatnot, but those would seem to be appetizers to birds of this size. They are large. We came upon a dozen of them sitting on the wooden rails of a short pier/overlook, and I crept up on them slowly so that as they flew away one by one, Mab filmed from right behind me. When they launched, their strong wings beat the air like beating a rug: thump, thump, thump. The ranger also said that the alligators were submerged in the warmer water and one. Fine, we didn't need them.

 Analemmatic sundial outside nature center looks like sundial + the game Twister

Also the George Observatory on-site, open weekends

        We had time for one more spin, and that was the Whiteoak Trail. It was late afternoon, getting colder and darker. Some staff had to be heading home by then. We wanted to trail along the Brazos River for a while. Whiteoak is a bike trail, and again we had it to ourselves. It was gravel and earth and crossed through a half mile of silent, baaly forest (thick clusters of yaupon hollies, and here and there a gigantic, gnarled oak standing like a monument). Outside, gray winds. Inside, green and quiet. The trail brought us to the banks of the Brazos, wide and red with clay.

Wild yaupon

        I cranked up the speed setting on my wheelchair to make as much ground as possible before turning back. But in only a few seconds it was obvious I was moving no faster. I asked Mab shield my control display with her hand. My power was down to one bar out of 10! (Glare had obscured the display all day, zoinks.) We turned back immediately, but it was getting darker and darker and the chair getting slower and slower. In our minds we were both rehearsing what to do when I was stranded out there. 

Things are about to get real.

        But, lawdamercy, we limped back and our van Moby Dick came into view. The chair barely climbed up onto the pavement, and it died right in front of lift - Mab had to push me onto it. If we had hiked even 10 feet further, things would have been a mess. But it was completely exhilarating, dodging that bullet. We laughed like maniacs as we warmed up in the van.

        Mr. Baal, you got a good park.